Monday, November 3, 2014

Shakedown Hike - Day 4

Wednesday Oct. 8 -----Ouachita Trail ---- Hiked .8 mile

Begin MM 45.5 ---7:15 a.m.
End MM 46.3 --- 9:25 a.m.

Last night we all dove into our tents to get away from the bugs (flies, mosquitos, bees, no-see-ums, etc.) to have our dinner, such as it was {for me- 2 slices Cabot Sharp Cheddar, 4 Oreos, and the last of a baggie of trail mix which was pretty crumbled up by this time}.  After hanging our food/toiletries bags on a high limb, we are still in bear country, I crawled into my sleeping bag for the night at 7:00 p.m.

I knew we needed to get an earlier start this morning so last night I called out to Tundra and Titmouse that we should aim for a 7:00 a.m. hike out time for today.  Both of the last two days, hiking out at 10:35 a.m. and 9:05 a.m. had us hiking more thru the heat of the afternoon trying to get our miles done.  Since Tundra and I have waited each morning for Titmouse to get organized and packed up ready to leave camp, I thought if I suggested getting on the trail by 7:00 a.m., maybe in actuality we would hike out by 8:00 a.m.

Well I was shocked this morning at 5:15 a.m., I crawled out of my sleeping bag to get up and go pee, when soon after I got back into my tent I could hear Titmouse awake and packing up her gear!
Needless to say, we were all three packed up and ready to leave camp and hike out by 7:00 a.m.

However it was so foggy we could not even find the trail!  So we stood around, waiting a few minutes for it to get a little lighter, when Titmouse commented "All dressed up and no where to go"!

By 7:15 a.m. though, we were heading up the Ouachita Trail once again, in a thick fog, still anxiously looking for that new Stateline Shelter.  It has been a hard three days for Tundra and Titmouse!  Challenging terrain while lugging 30+ pounds on their backs, filtering pond, creek, and ditch water for drinking, sleeping on the ground, no showers or toilets, eating "whatever" out of their food bags, plus enduring the tremendous thunderstorms the very first night, and a lot warmer weather than we anticipated every day.  I never told them that backpacking was easy.  It is not!

So minutes after we began our hike this morning, as we were finishing our climb up Rich Mountain, I looked back at Tundra and she did not look good at all.  I could see in her eyes that she must be in pain.  We stopped for a few minutes while Tundra sat on a boulder, sick to her stomach, experiencing waves of nausea.  We decided for Titmouse to go on ahead and I would stay with Tundra.  We hiked a minute, then rest a minute, just try to make it to the Stateline Shelter.  We knew we couldn't be too far from it.  Once again Tundra told me that she did not sleep well last night.  This is three nights in a row of her not sleeping, then going thru strenuous exercise each day while hiking.  I think she is suffering from extreme exhaustion.

We soon made it to the State Line/Upper Kiamichi Wilderness Trailhead Registration Box.
                                    It is still very foggy!
 Once again there was no composition book to sign so I once again just wrote a note and left it in the box noting Tundra, Titmouse, and Flame passing thru.  While I was doing this, Tundra walked on up to the Shelter.
Nice Shelter!  In my next post I will tell you about our Volunteer experience helping to build this very shelter!  A great time!

These were some delicate looking pink flowers at the State Line.

When I got to the shelter, Tundra was sitting on the Shelter floor while leaning back on her backpack.  She looked totally spent!  We discussed it and decided to end our Shakedown Hike right there.

I volunteered to walk uphill to the Talimena Scenic Drive and start walking toward Queen Wilhelmina State Park, hoping a car would come by and pick me up, to get Tundra's vehicle, that we had left there on Sunday, then drive back to the Shelter to pick up Tundra and Titmouse.

After walking along very quickly on the Talimena Scenic Drive, in the heavy fog for about 40 minutes, I had not seen one single vehicle.  I guess it is too foggy for anyone to be out here sightseeing!  And it is still about six miles to the Park!  Luckily I was carrying a bottle of water and my cell phone, so I called Titmouse and asked her to call the State Park and see if someone would come to pick me up.  After a couple of minutes, Tundra called me back and said someone was on the way.  Hallelujah!   I continued walking, making it to the Mountain Fork Vista before the State Park Police car arrived to pick me up.

After retrieving Tundra's vehicle, I drove back to the State Line and picked up Tundra and Titmouse.  It is still really foggy as Titmouse drives us down to Mena, Ark. for a shower and lunch, in that order.
We rent a motel room at the Budget Inn, a cheap motel in Mena, (I would never sleep there, reminds me of the Relax Inn at Atkins, Va. on the A.T.!), so we can take a shower, wash our hair, put on clean dry clothes.  Next we went to The Chopping Block Steakhouse in Mena for a scrumptious burger and fries lunch!

Thankfully, Tundra is already feeling much better!  Nothing like a hot shower, dry clothes, and a good town meal to perk a body up!  She is feeling so much better, she is driving us back home (about a 4-5 hour trip).  Thank you so much Tundra for having your vehicle waiting at the end of our hike.  And a big thanks to Pyro for getting us to the beginning of our hike!

                            ----AFTERTHOUGHTS----

During the drive home I had plenty of time to think about the last four days of backpacking with Tundra and Titmouse, who were novices to long distance backpacking.

As we were preparing for this little adventure into the woods, I told Tundra and Titmouse that this would be a leisurely hike, covering only about 5 miles per day, giving them a chance to test their newly purchased gear, get used to setting up camp each night, packing back up each morning, purifying their drinking water, and carrying everything they need to survive on their back up and down mountains each day.

I think by day 2, Titmouse had her doubts about long distance backpacking.  She said she wanted to take her time and smell the flowers along the way.  Titmouse did not like the concept of hiking from point A to point B, setting a goal for each day, then hiking a steady enough pace to make it happen.  On our way home Titmouse told us she likes backpacking and camping out, but maybe for only a couple of days at a time, plus taking all the time she wants along the way.  I assured her that is fine for her.  Enjoy backpacking on short day or two trips.  Long distance backpacking is not for everyone, in fact it is enjoyed by only a very few folks!

On the other hand, Tundra seemed to me to be a strong hiker.  She definitely needs to take Advil/Tylenol PM before crawling into her sleeping bag each night, because the human body cannot sustain the strenuous effort involved in backpacking without restful, restorative sleep each night.
Tundra was very organized so she was quick to set up her camp in the evening and pack it back up in the morning.  Plus she can build an awesome campfire!

I enjoyed our little trek through the woods!  It was great to hike with friends and observe them as they discovered the world of backpacking.  Having Thru-Hiked the A.T. previously, I certainly feel like I had an advantage in that I knew first hand what to expect--climbing mountains, descending mountains, over sometimes overgrown trail, boulder-strewn trail, while carrying 20-30 pounds on your back is not easy.  It is truly a day's work to cover 10 miles or more in a day also.  A lot of times it is all mental, convincing your feet and legs to keep putting one foot in front of the other, and keep a steady pace, taking short breaks, snacking and staying hydrated, until you reach your planned destination for each day.

I found the Ouachita Trail to be quite beautiful and challenging.  I appreciate all the hard work of all the Trail Maintainers, all the volunteers who build those nice shelters, and the entire membership of FoOT for their dedication and tireless efforts in keeping the Ouachita National Recreation Trail available for hikers like me.

Tom "Pyro" and I are happy and proud to be a part of the FoOT organization as Trail Maintainers and volunteers!
http://friendsot.org

Shakedown Hike-Day 3

Tuesday Oct. 7 ---Ouachita Trail ----Hiked-6 miles

Begin MM 39.5 ---9:05 a.m.     
End MM 45.5 ---4:50 p.m.

How nice it was to be camped right beside the Kiamichi River last night!  I really enjoyed being able to get into the river last evening and wash the day's grime off my body.  Also, what a great source of water this morning!  As Tundra and I walked to the River's edge, we saw another large black snake as it slithered away into some brush at the edge of the water.  He probably was watching us as we dipped our water bottles into the River to get water!  

I slept so soundly last night....12 hours horizontal once again!  Amazingly this morning I am feeling very refreshed!  Yesterday was quite exhausting, walking so slowly on challenging terrain, stopping so often, experiencing dehydration from taking so long to get to a water source.  

While I am feeling refreshed and ready to hike, I can tell that Tundra and Titmouse do not share my enthusiasm.  Tundra said she did not sleep well again last night.  This is so not good because our bodies really needs restful sleep each night to sustain ourselves for another day of lugging a heavy backpack over challenging terrain.  However, I truly admire Tundra's spunk and tenacity as she goes about the routine of breaking camp.  She is packed and ready to go soon after 8:00 a.m. (before I was even ready!)  Our goal for today was to be hiking by 8:00 a.m.  Then we waited for Miss Titmouse who was moving slower this morning.  We were finally on the trail hiking at 9:05 a.m.  I feel like Titmouse is deciding that thru-hiking is not for her.  Even though we are hiking less than one mile per hour, Titmouse wants to go even slower and stop for longer periods of time to "smell the roses".  That's fine, there are many ways to backpack, something for everyone, that is what this Shakedown Hike is for, to explore options, to find out if either Tundra or Titmouse want to Thru-Hike the entire 223 miles of the Ouachita Trail next Spring.

The trail followed the Kiamichi River for the first few miles of our hike today.  Easy walking.


 The trail winds back and forth across the River, 7 or 8 river crossings which added some variety to our day.  I loved it!  We could mostly rock-hop our way across if we were careful.  {So much easier than all the rivers I crossed in Maine on the A.T.!}

Yea!  We reached our first water crossing....piece of cake!
 Now don't those tree roots look like snakes?

Tundra begins carefully (with her one short trekking pole) across the first crossing...
...when her left foot slips into the water, she just walks the rest of the way across right in the water....no more rock hopping!  Fun stuff!
 Here comes Titmouse....going so slowly it is painful for me to watch.
 Her boots are supposedly waterproof so she just wades across, albeit extremely slowly.

The trail continues to wind back and forth across the Kiamichi River several more times, the water level being low enough that I rocked hopped my way across all the crossings, never getting my shoes wet.  The trail also crossed many secondary streams while we were walking in the Kiamichi River bottom land.  What a nice change from yesterday!  Water, Water everywhere today!  And mushrooms!
 This is only the first river crossing, but Titmouse insisted on loading up on more water (she doesn't look like she is having fun at all), thus carrying more weight in her backpack for all the upcoming river crossings.
 We've made it  all of 1 1/2 from our last night's campsite... 

I loved this fascinating cluster of mushrooms!

Can you tell that BooBoo loves the water?  Just lounging!

Tundra is resting also, tired from lack of sleep the last two nights on the trail.

This is our second river crossing...Titmouse is tentatively stepping out....planting her trekking poles ahead for extra balance...
...and then she steps right into the water, to wade across, instead of trying to rock hop her way across....that should be quicker, right?...
...no, she climbs back up onto the large boulder in the center...while Tundra patiently waits....
 ...then Titmouse decides to rock hop the rest of the way instead of wading even though her shoes are already wet...funny, huh....

Around noon we reached the 7th and 8th river crossings and stopped for a lunch break in between the two crossings.
Tundra took her shoes off and put her feet into the cold river water for a refreshing foot bath!  We all laid out our wet clothing (from our previous night's river bath) on the sun-warmed rocks lining the river while we relaxed for about 45 minutes while eating our lunch and just enjoying the picturesque setting beside the Kiamichi River.  We camel-up on water also, preparing for our afternoon's steep climb up Rich Mountain.  Our goal for today is to reach the new Stateline Shelter.

Soon after leaving our nice lunch spot on the River we came to this Trail Sign....
...only 3.3 miles girls!   The new Stateline Shelter is where the Trail meets Talimena Drive.  We can do it! 
 
We then start climbing.  The Trail is well marked and very well graded with plenty of switchbacks to ease the climb.  There was lichen covered rocks and mushrooms along the way.


I was in the lead for most of the day, trying to keep our pace up and Tundra and Titmouse were trudging along behind me.

 It is a warm afternoon, but I am feeling pretty good now after rehydrating, drinking lots of water both last night and this morning.  I feel like I am getting my "trail legs" this afternoon while climbing up the steep slope of Rich Mountain.  {I also think that the 4 mile walks I have been doing almost every day at home previous to the hike has raised my fitness level tremendously.}

I realize almost immediately that Tundra is dragging, showing general fatigue, while Titmouse is really falling behind.  Titmouse is a much slower hiker than Tundra or myself, but we are sticking together and watching out for each other on this Shakedown Hike.
 Woohoo!  Another mile behind us!
We reach a ridgeline with a view and a few feet of level trail!
                                            A tired Tundra...
                     Titmouse plugging along....

Have I mentioned what a pretty trail the Ouachita Trail is?  I like it a lot! 

I continue walking, getting a little ways ahead, then stop and wait for Tundra and Titmouse to come into view, then go a little ways further, and stop and wait again, repeating this throughout the afternoon.

Along the steep climb up Rich Mountain, we encounter a lot of overgrown trail.  We wade though weeds, poison ivy, briars, and brambles.  It will be a miracle if we don't all get a rash from all the poison ivy we are wading thru.  We also encounter several blow downs that we have to make our way around.  But the trail and the woods continues to be pretty.
 

In the late afternoon I round a bend in the trail and almost step on this rattlesnake!
I immediately jump sideways and scream "Snake!"  It is stretched out long ways right in the middle of the trail, facing us, flicking its tongue at us.  I snap a photo of it, then detour past it, letting it have the trail, and then I look back and snap a photo of Tundra as she is taking a picture of the rattler with her phone.
 Oh boy!  That woke me right up, got my adrenaline flowing!

Woohoo!  Another mile behind us!
The trail is not only steep in places it is also rocky in places!

BooBoo is having a grand time just hanging out on the back of my pack!

We continued our trek up Rich Mountain.  After passing MM 45, I realize we likely will not make it to the new Stateline Shelter today.  After waiting for Tundra and Titmouse to catch up, again,
we took a short break and discussed our options and decided to try to walk another hour, then look for a flat spot to stealth camp.

So that is what we did.  At almost 5:00 p.m. we were up on a ridge, and there was a slight breeze, when we spotted a tiny flat spot, just big enough for all three of our tents.  Home Sweet Home for night #three on the Ouachita Trail
 It looks like we did laundry, with our damp clothing hanging all around our little campsite! 
 

Sunday, November 2, 2014

Shakedown Hike-Day 2

Monday Oct. 6 ---Ouachita Trail----Hiked 5.4 miles

Begin MM 34.1 ---10:35 a.m.    
End MM 39.5 ---4:00 p.m.

I awoke at 1:50 a.m. hearing thunder and seeing lightening all around!  I quickly got up and made a bee line out of my tent to pee before the rain hit!  Just got back into my tent when the rain started!

The next hour was wild!  Wild to be in a thin nylon, on the ground, on the side of a mountain, while tremendous thunderstorms moved thru the area between 2:00 a.m.-3:00 a.m.!  Waves of extremely loud booming thunder rolling across continually where we were camped!  And the lightening was cracking loudly and just steadily blinking lighting up the whole sky, and my little tent!  It seemed like way longer than an hour that this storm was over us!  I finally covered up my head with my sleeping bag so at least I couldn't see the lightning , then I could only hear the thunder booming , seemingly right on top of my tent.  I was saying a constant prayer of thanks to God for watching over us!

I was very concerned for Tundra and Titmouse, my novice backpacking friends.  Their very first night on the trail experiencing the raw forces of nature!  I was wondering if we would have been better off sleeping in the shelter now.

It calmed down to just a steady light rain soon after 3:00 a.m. and I guess I was tired because I went right back to sleep until morning.  And what a beautiful morning it was.  The woods were washed clean, and hopefully there would be plenty of water along the trail today.

It is great to have this nice Pashubbe Shelter to sit in, have our breakfast in while chatting with one another, and to get our gear packed back into our backpacks.

Tundra said she did not sleep good at all last night, and really doesn't sleep well when she is not at home.  Not good.

A FoOT volunteer made a really pretty cedar box, hanging on the shelter wall, to hold the shelter register and keep it dry.  A very nice touch! 

Tundra and I packed up pretty quickly this morning ready to hit the trail.  We hope to find a good spot in the sunshine later this morning to lay out our tents to dry out.  Don't have any definite plans for today.  Hike as far as we can.  Distance today will probably be determined by Titmouse, since she has the shortest legs, and thus the shortest stride.

But first Titmouse has to get her backpack packed back up so we can hike.  She's working on it.......
                            She's still fiddling with her gear......
and we're waiting....

We did not get on the trail until 10:30 a.m., sort of late by thru-hiking standards, especially if the day is going to be warm.

As I said the trail is marked very well, even though sometimes the "blaze tree" has fallen onto the ground.

We walked the .2 mile to the Pashubbe Trailhead Campground, accessible by vehicle on F.R.6032, that Tom "Pyro" and I had drove to and checked out yesterday. 

Just a short distance further is the Passhubbe Trailhead Registration Box.  We paused there, but since there was no composition book inside, I just used a small piece of paper that I had to note that Tundra, Titmouse, and Flame passed this way on Monday morning.  It is always good to sign to sign in at each Registration Box in case of an emergency, rescue personnel could pinpoint our approximate location.

With the rain last night the mushrooms are loving it!


We crossed several "dry" rocky streambeds in our first mile (remember it rained last night) in our search for more water to get through today.  The very last rocky streambed we crossed had one small, almost stagnant, puddle of water, but we opted to continue to the wildlife pond just ahead that was listed as "a reliable water source" in our Ouachita Trail Guide #5 by Tim Ernst.

The trail is following the boundary line of the Kiamichi Wilderness Area and we can see the signs posted on random trees as we continue along slowly , searching for that pond!  (Between the three of us we barely have a liter of water!)

As we begin to climb Wilton Mountain, I am very concerned about our water situation.
After climbing a few switchbacks, I know there will not be a pond up here!  So I suggest that I drop my pack, grab a couple of empty  platypuses, and head back to that semi-stagnant puddle and get us some water.  Tundra and Titmouse immediately said "No, we can take small sips and ration our water until we find another water source".  In hindsight, I should have just took off back down to that puddle.  I am supposedly the "experienced backpacker" and I know better than to ever pass up a water source, especially on a trail that is notorious for being "dry".   

I feel really bad about our water situation!  I hiked all 2,181 miles of the A.T. so I know better, but I still broke the cardinal rule of backpacking, "Never pass up a water source".  Especially since we were already low on water.  I should have at least filled my water bottles at that little puddle we passed, knowing if I found the "reliable" pond and it was a better source, I could always dump the stagnant water and replace it with "better" water.  I am mentally beating myself up!  The day is getting warmer, we are continually climbing switchback after switchback up Wilton Mountain.

As our situation grows more desperate, Tundra and Titmouse begin to notice up-turned leaves in the trail that are holding a precious few drops of water, remnants of last night's rain.  So they begin to gently pick up these leaves and carefully pour the tiny amount of water into Tundra's water-filter bag!  We even come upon a large rock in the middle of the trail that has a depression in the top holding a small amount of water.  I immediately begin to use my bottle cap to scoop up a little of that water!


When we finally reach a ridgeline,
we stop for a break, lay out our wet tents to dry, and have a snack and a few sips of our remaining few ounces of water.  After packing back up, we see the trail follows along the top of the ridge, but it is very overgrown with briars and poison ivy.  Good thing those blue blazes are on the trees and rocks to guide us because sometime the trail is so overgrown it is hard to tell if there is a trail, but then we look up and spot one of those blue blazes up ahead and just keep plowing our way through.
 Poor Titmouse.  The fabric of her shorts are like a magnet for those "stick-tights" or "beggar's lice" or whatever they are!

We did have a fun moment on the trail in spite of being dehydrated.  We came upon a huge boulder that reminded me of McAfee Knob from the A.T.!  Of course we could not resist climbing up on it for a photo op!

 Titmouse even demonstrated her "planking" stance!

A nice lighthearted moment to get our mind off of needing water!
                      Tundra, looking good!

We climb uphill, more switchbacks and come to a rocky outcropping and stop once again for a short break, have a snack, and drink our last remaining sips of water.  It has been warm again today and we are tired and ready to be done for today.

We finally start descending down, down, down to the Kiamichi River!  Our steps quicken as we descend, Tundra is in the lead now, for our desperate search for a water source.  I feel our situation is critical.  At this moment I am not sure how much further it is to the river. 

Suddenly Tundra calls out "bear!"  She is out of my and Titmouse's sight on the next switchback.  As we come around the bend in the trail we see Tundra and are looking all around for the bear!  "Where?  Where is the bear?"  Tundra said she mostly saw its rear end as it ran down the mountain away from her, it all happening so fast she did not even have time to whip her phone out for a photo!  I told them that is the way it should be.  Wild animals SHOULD be afraid of any human contact!

Down, down, down we walk.  Right after we level out on an old road trace we suddenly see a small ditch along side the trail, and IT HAS WATER IN IT! 
We all three immediately dropped our packs, grabbed a water bottle, and began filling it with that precious life-giving source...WATER! 
 I have never in my life been so happy to find water!  I didn't care if it was from a ditch!  Tundra and Titmouse both have a Sawyer Squeeze Water Filter, so they were squeezing that purified water directly into their mouths!  I filled both of my 20-oz. Gatorade bottles and a one liter platypus.  We knew then that we weren't far from the Kiamichi River!

Sure enough, a few minutes later we arrived at the beautiful Kiamichi River! 
 We saw a large black snake swimming across the river!  We didn't care. There were campsites on both sides of the trail, so we chose the one on the left since it was larger and higher up from the river.  Home sweet home for the night!
 I drank both of my 20-oz. bottles of water before I finished setting up my tent.  Hydrate, hydrate.  Tundra and I then went down to the River and got into the cold water, clothes and all, washing ourselves and our sweaty clothes at the same time.  So refreshing!  How sweet is to feel clean and put on my soft cotton tee-shirt for sleeping.
We hung up all our wet clothing in hopes it would dry tonight.

I was feeling pretty wiped from being so dehydrated all day.  I drank another liter of water while trying to eat a little something.  Tundra attempted to build us a fire again tonight but all the leaves and twigs are just too wet from last night's rain.

  I then crawled into my tent to get away from the no-see-ums and mosquitos around 7:00 p.m.  I just wanted to get horizontal for a few minutes, away from the bugs and I also had a slight headache and just felt a little "unsettled".  By this time I had consumed 60 ounces of water since we arrived at our campsite, but it is difficult to make up for going all day with barely any water.  I fell asleep almost immediately. 

I woke up a little later, just before dark, to help Titmouse hang our food bags on my "bear rope" from a high tree limb.  We "bear bagged" (hung our food) every night on this hike.

I went right back to sleep and slept soundly until 7:00 a.m. the next morning.  A good night's sleep is so incredibly restorative to a body!